The Cured Ham

The Cured Ham and TL Garden 2011

The Sun is Out and it's time to garden! We'll see what type of crop grows this year. 2010 was a little weak and a little cold. We're giving these plants a head start under the make-shift greenhouse. How do you like those old-school blue plastic weights from the 70's holding down the plastic?

Gumbo Throwdown in Fresno

The Gumbo Throwdown at the Vineyard Farmer's Market today, was fun (albeit loud). For me, the easy winner was Trelio. Lovely color and flavor, real depth and I'm looking forward to trying some of your wine as well (since we talked about it today) Dusty Buns certainly gets Best Presentation, but I wish the sample had more pop in the mouth. Spiciest had to be the Culinary Academy with their late entry, kudos for a solid showing. Cracked Pepper had a round mouth feel, almost like a beef gravy rather than a spicey cajun edge. Max's reminded me instantly of a thick chicken soup that was enriched with Old Bay and cajun seasonings. 

To my fellow bloggers, my alter ego had to catch a flight, so I got there early and left in a hurry, unexpected business. Another time. Goodbye Fresno, time to catch that plane.

Scopa, Healdsburg

I've eaten at Scopa a couple of times, both for dinner. I have no intention of detailing both meals (sometimes I shut off the critic in me on a Friday) and I don't have pictures because I sat at the bar both times (where the bartender took good care of me). The menu changes often and it's one of the toughest places in town to get into. I will however point out one dish which has a special place in my heart, Tripe.

I love a well made tripe dish. I've often made reference to Diavola in Geyserville as having a superlative tripe when Chef decides to offer it. Of course I can blabber on about the tripe stands in Florence as well. I'm pleased to say that Scopa also has a wonderful tripe dish, although more Southern Italian in preperation than Diavola. The addition of chili peppers adds a wonderful spicy component to the dish. The whole, squatty pepper is presented on top of the dish with a warning, eat at your own peril. The addition of some grilled bread is offered with the steaming bowl of tripe. The tripe itself was tender, incorporated well with the tomato based sauce, and had no 'stink' that lesser tripe dishes are known to have. I really enjoyed my tripe.

Be warned, Scopa is a small restaurant in the Healdsburg town square and can be nearly impossible some days to get a table or one of the less than 8 seats at the bar. They do take reservations. I tend to eat when they open at 5:30. 

Three Home-Cooked Meals

While I've recently had a flurry of restaurant dining experiences, I've also had four remarkable home-cooked experiences that match any night out. While I rarely detail the experiences or the food of friends and relatives (I like be invited over for dinner as a friend, not a critic), I want to recognize great cooks, great meals, and great friends.

Dinner on The East Side: My friends and climbing partners, Lyra and Dave, hosted me for Dave’s birthday party. The menu included salmon, braised kale, various cheeses, salad and included a homemade Hollandaise and homemade vanilla ice cream. I haven’t had homemade Hollandaise in years and it’s not an easy sauce to make. Even though Lyra is a full time rock climber, she was joking about being “gripped” after using the whisk to make the sauce. Pretty funny to hear from someone who can pull herself up a rock wall with her fingertips. Bravo. I think I was a little selfish with the braised kale and the salmon that the Hollandaise paired with. And who can resist homemade ice cream? Check David and Lyra out at California Alpine Guides.

Dinner in The City: I was down in San Francisco recently with long-time friends, Emi, Bob, and Lee for a casual dinner party over several bottles of wine. Emi was in charge of the kitchen this round and put together a simple and delicious caldo starter and braised chicken. Well incorporated and complimentary flavors typical of the region where Emi was born, Acapulco. This is the continuation of the dining roundtable I hosted a couple months ago. Looks like we're coming to your house next Lee!

Dinner in Wine Country: A little closer to home, the famous crab feed, hosted by Ray Lewand of The Camellia Inn, was served along with butternut squash soup and bacon wrapped asparagus. An all-star meal to be sure. But rewind to the start of the evening; three simple but remarkable focaccias were introduced when guests arrived. Prepared by Christina, Ray’s daughter, these herb and seeded focaccias were brilliant. I could have easily eaten focaccia, cheese, and wine for the entire night.  I think I’ve got an idea for my next dinner party: Christina’s Focaccia and Red Wine.

Dinner at The Super Bowl: My childhood friend John hosts an annual Super Bowl party in Fresno. It’s a chance to catch up with old friends, drink some beer, and collaborate on food.  There is usually a heavy food and beverage industry crowd at John’s house, so there is also a little friendly competition. I think there were three secret family recipes for salsa available that day, a quarter wheel of Parmesan, two grilled tenderloins of beef, bacon wrapped prawns, a killer 7-Layer dip, a pizza bread with bacon, fresh fried chicken, and probably 8 different craft and premium beers. Even better, there was leftover tenderloin for sandwiches the following night.

Thanks to everyone over the last several weeks. I appreciate the meals, the conversation, and the friendships.

Campagnia's Lives On!!

Note: 2 Weeks After this Post, Campagnia Has Closed.

A dramatic weekend and successful Valentine's Day for Campagnia's in Fresno. A statement was released on the Facebook Fan Site today regarding recent events (which i've attached View this photo). The Cured Ham is pleased to see both the statement and the Valentine's Day re-opening. 

But recent events with Campagnia should serve as a reminder and a warning to those wanting to start a second location, the dream of North Fresno or Old Fig, or just continuing to keep a high standard over a long period of time. Here's some history (and I'm only writing down what long-time Fresnan's are thinking anyway, so don't gasp for air when you read the list):

• Elbow Room (Supernatural Powers) and The Chef's Table (Dead)
• Waasabi (Alive) and Waasabi Fig Garden (Alive)
• Cracked Pepper (Alive) and Yalla Yalla (Infant)
• La Rocca's (Dead) and Five (Alive)
• Campagnia (Alive) and Pangea (Dead)
• Why did Echo ever leave the Tower District? It was waaaay cooler in the Tower.
• Why did La Paella want to move to North Fresno? So that I could make a reservation only to find out that it didn't matter?
• Was Pacific Seafood ever well lit?
• Don't ever bring another brewery to Fig Garden. RIP Rock Bottom and Bulldog Brewery. Besides, Fish Co. was the best place in town when Fig Gig was going on.
• Was Belana ever a restaurant or just a nightclub. Really, a nightclub in Fig Garden? (bring back Fish Co!!!!! Now I'm dating myself)
• D.J. Hill's was a really cool place to have dinner and a drink, but ended up being just drinks
• Il Forno could do more with an oven downtown than most could do with a whole kitchen and the North Fresno location had great food and a cool counter

The restaurant business is one of the most difficult careers around with a very high failure rate. Getting everything right and then getting customers in the door, night after night is difficult at best. Fresno as a market is prone to franchises and chains taking market share and press time with high advertising budgets and the ability to discount.

Look at Daily Grill. Has anyone ever paid full price for anything there since they opened? They should have paid for a permanent sign outside that flashed specials like a gas station flashes prices on Highway 99. It would look better than that white vinyl sign.  

I appreciate the risk that each of the restaurants I listed above has taken or will take again to keep their businesses profitable. Fresnan's deserve a better class of local restaurant. To churn out a steak with the same efficiency and product quality as Ruth Chris or Flemings' AND be willing to pay for it from the LOCAL vendor is critical. In order to have wine education and tastings at Trelio, it takes time, effort and knowledge. Does Macaroni Grill have that? No, they have wine recommendations printed on their menu. To appreciate the time and effort it takes to make FRESH pasta at Parma isn't cheap and no, Olive Garden doesn't make pasta as good...and never will. I made fresh pasta last night as a matter of fact (usually I make it once a week), it's a lot tougher than opening a box.

Fresnan's, is Cheesecake Factory, Buffalo Wild Wings, Elephant Bar, Applebee's, The Habit, or the upcoming Yard House really that great? How can 1000 menu items at Cheesecake Factory be that good? Wild Wings? Really. The Habit...anything but. Yard O'Beer no, it's not that cool it's just a lot of beer in a big glass. Get over it. Tailgates at Bulldog Football are better than these chains and a lot more fun.

Fresnan's should demand more from their local restaurants, not mediocrity because "oh, they're local". There's plenty of mediocrity with the chains. Fresnan's should also understand that local restaurants have to charge appropriately for the level of quality and service, commensurate with a Ruth Chris. However, no quarter should be given to local restaurants that charge high prices and can't measure up; those restaurants should fail. Service quality and food need to be at a high standard just as if you were in San Francisco. There shouldn't be a "special" category for Fresno restaurants. Great is great in San Francisco, Seattle, or Fresno. Great is Cracked Pepper. Greatness has not been achieved at Yalla Yalla. Competition is healthy and Fresno restaurants should relish in the fact that most of their competition comes from a chain rather than Michelin Stars or Michael Bauer critiques.

Or maybe, just maybe, too many local Fresno restaurants are playing to the level of their competition like the Bulldogs too often do. Play every game like you're playing USC, not the Division II scrubs. Just some food for thought from your friendly neighborhood Cured Ham.

A quick break from Peru

There are a few more Peruvian reviews that I would like to share, but I wanted to mix in some variety with a return trip to my beloved East Side of California and Highway 395. There were a few great finds in Bishop that must be shared. We'll return to Peru, soon.

Freaky Peruvian Bread

If someone can explain this, I would appreciate it. I found these breads being sold at the Arequipa Terminal Terreste before dawn. Why would I want to eat bread with the faces of a Ken Doll and Speed Racer on it? Why?

The Cured Ham visits Peru

The Cured Ham was lucky enough to stamp his passport one time in 2010 for vacation. Peru was a new destination, although not the first time to South America.

Peru was a delightful experience. Wonderfully hospitable and dramatically beautiful, I felt at ease through the entire trip. I'll have a series of posts to get through over the next couple of weeks both here and the Facebook Fan site. I'm trying to vary the content between the two sites so you don't get the same post twice for those of you who are fans and subscribers.

One of the many highlights, Machu Picchu, late in the afternoon during a brief period of sunshine.

2010 Leftovers and The Look Ahead to 2011

This seems to be a regular year-end post for me. There are always several restaurants that I don't fully review. Maybe it's a lack of attention at dinner, losing my notes, or simply sitting with someone at the table that is more important than the meal.

I kept a couple menus and always keep notes on where I eat, even the small spots. The following posts will come in rapid fire with a brief review, in some cases the full menu. When I'm out of documentation, I'll probably just run the list of restaurants in a single post by city.

I do have complete notes on my trip to Peru and have begun to input them online along with pictures. I may also comment on the hotel group I stayed with, Orient Express Hotels.

2011 has already started with a trip back and forth to New York, a renewal of Platinum Marriott Status, Premier Executive on United, and the typical beginning of the year planning for what towns to travel to. Work, work, work. But then again, "Money Never Sleeps"...

What's next for The Cured Ham? More travel, more food, more experiences. Wish me luck. But, in the end, it's simple pleasures like this picture that some up my day and my year. There still is nothing better than a perfect shot of espresso (5 times a day).

 

T.L.'s Metal Fabrication Shop, Fresno

Nothing says Thanksgiving like a brand new BBQ. Well, from the metal fabrication shop in Fresno comes T.L.'s latest backyard creation. What used to hold bulk grape juice from L&P (and shipped to Healdsburg no less) has been transformed into a multi-use BBQ / Smoker / Grill. The tube on your left can smoke or grill with the ability to hang meat from a sharp metal rod off the roof of the canister. The Cured Ham was part of the early stage design and fabrication. This sweet baby gets a full workout this weekend when I cook for 80 people at a 40th birthday party in the wine country. Pork will be BBQ'd for about 16 hours over a variety of woods.