The Cured Ham

Ristorante Bacco, Bari, Puglia Italy

Ristorante Bacco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 126

Bari, Puglia, Italy

Michelin Guide 2009: One Star

I had been anticipating my trip to Puglia for weeks. Flight service into Puglia serves two cities, Bari and Brindisi. I had recently purchased my Michelin Guide in Italian and was diligently reviewing the towns I planned on visiting. My first night in Puglia would be in the town of Bari. There are only five Michelin starred restaurants in all of Puglia and Bacco in Bari is one of them. Dining at Bacco was the beginning of a mission, a quest; to find the best food in Puglia.

The host and proprietor, Franco Ricatti was gracious and moved around the dining room like Fred Astaire. Franco managed the full restaurant with simplicity and ease. One of the best performances in the front of house I’ve seen in a long time and have never witnessed in the US. A quick note on the wine service. Franco used a massively oversized Cabernet glass to decant, sample, and serve wine to tables. It was a bit of a show piece and maybe not the most practical thing in the world, but it was certainly a conversation starter and he did know how to dazzle the table with it.

Just as I sat down, I witnessed a seafood tower, not like the ones at Mastro’s Steakhouse or The Capital Grille in the States, but a fresh, unfried, tower of local seafood that is simply steamed and served to a six-top across from me. I didn't order a tower myself, I simply witnessed what a proper seafood tower looks like when not in an American steakhouse. Beautiful and simple.

To begin my meal, I was presented a small appetizer plate upon settling in at my table. On my first night in Puglia, a complete tasting portion of regional starters was the perfect welcome to the region, starting with the most perfect 'knobs' of taralli I had my entire trip. Each 'knob' rather than the normal pretzel shape, was crisp and packed a good punch of fennel. The appetizer plate was constructed of miniature portion sizes of antipasti; blanched almonds,  four varieties of tomato bruschetta: heirloom, red and yellow cherry, and standard red tomato with dried oregano, two varieties of cheese: burrata, fresh mozzarella, and mixed olives all of which exhibited some of the best foods of the region on one plate. Well selected and executed tasting of regional specialties.  

My first course, suggested by Franco, was local fish two ways. A creamy pesto over a blanched shrimp and green beans. About as simple and tasty as it gets, but a dish that requires the chef to do everything properly. Each element tasted as it should and incorporated well together. Second, a black bass stuffed with a grilled eggplant and a beurre blanc sauce, that was full palate and rich. I compared in my notes the grilled eggplant I ate at lunch that was rolled with ham, cheese and basil as a more “natural” dish for the eggplant, rather than the fish. This combination was challenging to my palate as years of Italian American cuisine prepared at home never combined eggplant and fish. I kept drinking my apertivo of prosecco which the fish course paired well with and then mid-way through a Riesling the proprietor recommended.

My next course was the spaghetti with ricci. This ricci was much more mellow than the sea urchin I have had at sushi restaurants. The flavor of the sea, but without a harsh, tongue sticking aftertaste. The ‘sauce’ and I use the term loosely, that covered the pasta was not a broth and not a built sauce. My thought is it is formed by tossing the pasta over and over again in some of the pasta water with the light background of flavor from the sauce in the pan, similar to the technique for carbonara. The sauce fully coats the pasta and has flavor but doesn’t overpower anything, especially not the ricci. A memorable and again simple dish.

My notes throw out a culinary travels question. Is ricci an acquired taste, a gourmet’s taste, or just another creature you harvest from the sea off the Southern Adriatic that if you’re lucky enough to live there, you’ve been having your entire life?

I asked my Italian relatives when I returned to the States whether they had ever used ricci or sea urchin in their cooking? The answer was a unanimous, No. Yet, higher end Italian restaurants in the U.S. are beginning to use ricci in some of their dishes. Mario Batali has been using it on Iron Chef for years. Suffice it to say, I loved the dish and look forward to returning to Bari to have it again.

My main course was a stuffed squid with cheese (blasphemy?!), and perfectly grilled tentacles. I wrote in my notes that while all the ingredients were fresh, lovely, well seasoned, and cooked properly, I was challenged to think in unorthodox terms. Stuffing squid with fresh cheese. Is it the Italian Fourth Commandment, Thou Shall Not Mix Cheese With the Creatures of the Sea? Or is it that Bacco is attempting to break with tradition and mix cheese with fish? I have read instances of fish and cheese prepared together, but in abstract. I think the dish was well prepared, however, I believe it was the only time in Italy that I had dairy paired with seafood. Perhaps this begins to explain the Michelin Star; challenge the palate and challenge tradition with wonderful execution and simplicity.

I finished up my grand meal with a simple cheese course and the standard Plate O’Cookies. I didn't take notes or pictures of the cheese, only knowing they were 100% local. The cookies were mixed but always include what American's identify as biscotti.

For my first night in Puglia and only night in Bari, my eyes were opened to a new world of Southern Italian cuisine. Reminders of my Italian American heritage were present that evening, starting with the taralli and simple plate of bruschetta, but they were the only reminders. What followed was a challenge and enlightenment of the palate and foreshadowed my wonderful experience in the region of Puglia.

Grazie Franco.

Il Cantuccio, Matera, Italy

Moving west from Puglia, I enter the region of Basilicata and the town of Matera. Matera is home to the Sassi, ancient hillside structures and a UNESCO world heritage site. I’ll spend only one night here as I'm on the move toward the west and the Amalfi Coast. Too bad really, I liked the town.

I had adopted my theory of big lunches and gelato dinners at this point in the trip. I just couldn’t continue doing two massive meals a day and gaining weight like a prized Hereford waiting for slaughter. Halfway between my hotel and the town square, I walked by Il Cantuccio several times as I roamed the city. I noticed the previous day, lunch and dinner were packed.

Talk about a tough reservation to get. The restaurant is a single room with 10 tables, all 4 tops. I walked in the moment they opened for lunch and was seated immediately. However, if I’d walked in 10 minutes later, too bad, they’re all full. During my lunch, they turned away several diners. I felt only slightly guilty that I was taking up only one seat at the table, but by this time in the trip, I was eating and drinking for two anyway.

The wine I ordered was a regional specialty, Terre di Orazio, Aglianico del Vulture, 2006, Cantina di Venosa at 13% alcohol, I would drink this over Rhone wine any day. As the wine was served, so was some of the best smelling and tasting bread I had on the entire trip. Don’t ask me why I remember this detail but it was delicious. I had been eating bread since my first day in Southern Italy (Florentine bread in Tuscany was inferior) but none I tried tasted this good.

After several minutes with the menu to plan my luncheon feast, I started with a Polenta Lucana con Salsiccia di Chiaromonte. I don’t recall seeing polenta outside of my Polentaria experience in Lake Como early on in the trip, so I figured I’d see what the deep south had to offer. Firm polenta with a high quality sausage and adorned with a spicy tomato sauce. It looked pretty on the plate and was under $10 US. Just what I would have expected. Not that $22 polenta and sausage outrage from Palio in San Francisco.

In the interests of full disclosure, my next dish will break an Italian rule, ordering pasta just after polenta. A wide noodle, short cut pasta made with chickpea flour. Pancetta was used in the preparation of the sauce. I didn’t detect any garlic or shallot pieces in the sauce itself, yet there is a hint, a whisper in the background. The primary herb is bay leaf, fresh. The texture of the sauce is not quite as thick as béchamel and not quite pure cream either. In this case, they pureed some of the ceci beans and added them to the sauce to thicken it. Cool little trick.

My final course was lamb tagine with potato. Really infused flavor of herbs in the lamb and potato. Chunks of lamb mostly on the bone, not pieces. With a slight amount of pressure, the meat would release from the bone. There were a few choice cuts, but in the spirit of the dish, not many. I recall spices and flavors more typical of North Africa than Italy, but it’s not a surprise this far south. I love lamb!

  

Fueled up on my triple carbohydrate polenta, pasta, and potato lunch, it was time to hit the road for Paestum on the West Coast. I enjoyed my brief stay in Matera and wish I could return to this town someday. I snapped over 100 photos in just over 24 hours. One of my favorites is below, Dawn in Matera.

Osteria Caroseno, Castellana Grotte, Italy

via Santomagno 18, 70013

Castellana Grotte (BA), Puglia

Not having a specific restaurant selected for lunch worked well for me when I wandered through Puglia. Osteria Caroseno in Castellana Grotte in the province of Bari is no exception. Talk about a great find wandering the streets of the town after exploring the caves nearby.
 
The strategy was simple, find a parking spot near the center of town and begin making circles around the center until something interesting pops up. Snap a couple pictures, see how people live, find a caffe for an espresso later. Good way to spend the afternoon. After about 40 minutes, I found the Osteria I didn’t plan to find but glad I did.

I walked inside and witnessed a lovely interior, rich looking and spacious. Only a couple tables were occupied. As I was greeted in Italian and told to sit anywhere I liked, I gazed at the floor to find a subterranean wine cellar and a table and chair over the top. Yes, the perfect seat I wasn’t looking for indeed.

My waiters, there were three, spoke no English. In fact, the menu was only in Italian as well. Now I’m sure I’ve found a great place. Lucky for me I don’t have any dietary restrictions or overly fussy neurotic issues about ordering in a language I’m still learning and mistakenly order grilled lower intestines. This should be fun. Besides, I’m sitting on top of wine cellar.

On to the business of ordering some wine. I was offered a booklet of wine and from the literal depth of the cellar, the number of choices was no surprise. The wine I chose was a half bottle of a 16% (labeled, but who knows) BOMBER Primitivo. It went surprising well with entire meal. The experience here with this wine made me think about my general avoidance of higher alcohol wines in the States. The trend of picking riper and riper grapes each season is increasing the bold fruit flavors and the alcohol in wines, especially in California Zinfandel.

I picked up a couple additional ½ bottles of Primitivo on my way out. I had a string of bad luck with bottles when I bought them from wine stores. Based upon my experience with Italian shop owners, the lack of air conditioning can’t be good for the wines. I figured with the cellar below me, storage temp is not an issue for the restaurant. In addition to having a wine cellar, the other find on the cellar list was locally produced beer. I bought a couple of 22oz beers for the road, figuring they would travel just as well as the wine and back to the masseria.

On to the food. I wasn’t in the mood for any antipasti this afternoon. I was looking more for a pasta and main course. The pasta I decided on was named “chicche” which resembled a spaezle, but smaller. It was served with a smoked cheese cream sauce, but the base was milk rather than cream (I asked). Very rich, smooth, great mouth feel. The smoke flavor was light and the cream was not nearly as rich as an American alfredo sauce. There was no egg added to the dish. A nice change from more typical Puglian orecchiette.

Secondi, was a pork loin cooked on the grill and finished in the oven and topped with sautéed mushrooms flavored with tarragon and rosemary. The loin came with a side of hash brown like potatoes and onions. The mushrooms tasted like a cross between a regular brown and a chanterelle. The pork was juicy and delicious. The use of the potato made me think more of Northern Italy and Switzerland and the various rosti dishes I’ve consumed while climbing. The Swiss and their rosti, every restaurant you walk into and always the same. Ah, the Swiss...consistency.

Don’t let my lack of discussion regarding the service staff lead you to believe they weren’t professional. I think the language barrier was an impediment to casual interaction. They were extremely attentive. If I so much as looked up at them, they came to the table, sometimes two at a time. Lots of pointing and nodding helped with the wine selection both for lunch and to take home. My English may have suggested to them that I would like beer as well, as they suggested I review their beer list. All pluses in my book.

Another day wandering the streets of Southern Italy…and another perfect day. If you're in Castellana Grotte, I hope you look for this restaurant, it's a great find.

Caffe Cento, The Fairmont Hotel

Only after leaving the Bay Area did I discover this gem of a caffe attached to The Fairmont Hotel in San Francisco. When you live in The East Bay and work in the Financial District, there aren't many reasons to go up Nob Hill for breakfast. Well, walking up the hill for a perfect espresso in the afternoon is enough for me.

The the size and flavor of the pastries and coffee remind me more of a proper Italian caffe, than a super-sized vente mocha half-caf low fat abomination from America's favorite chain. Everything about Cento is right. Espresso is never served in cardboard. The service staff picks the pastry out with a set of tongs, not their grubby hands.

The pastries are delicious and fresh each day. I rotate between the fruit croustades and the Fairmont scone. The scone is a classic scone with raisins. The croustades is usually filled with apple, but sometimes pear. I tend to enjoy eating all the fruit out first, then savoring the pastry dough with my coffee.

Regular readers understand I can get a bit testy when my espresso is served hot, like a coffee. Or worse, in cardboard with no crema. Not here. I cannot recall having a bad espresso at Caffe Cento. The only coffee they use is Illy brand; yet another reminder of Italy.

If you have the chance after a difficult day of shopping in Union Square, take the cable car up the hill and stop at California Street for a perfect espresso, or whatever coffee drink you fancy. You won't be disappointed.

Il Cenacolo, Barletta, Italy

 

Il Cenacolo

Di Bruno Mauro

62, Via Cialdini, Barletta, Bari

The Cured Ham stumbled upon Il Cenacolo, on a day trip to Barletta, just north of Bari in the region of Puglia. Why Barletta? It has an old fort on the waterfront which houses an art exposition I wanted to see. Seemed like a good day trip. The museum had some historic pieces but mainly focused on modern art forms. There was one exhibit in particular that I liked, The Batman. Yes, The Dark Knight made it all the way to Puglia.

After wandering around town for 30 minutes looking at restaurants, I decided on Il Cenacolo. I sat down to lunch around 1:30 and without hesitation was served three simple crostini with tomato, olive oil, and dried oregano. I’ve had bruschetta a million times and will continue to eat it. The bread was toasted properly, the tomatoes were fresh, chopped, salted and void of seeds; the olive oil deftly applied and a hint of dried oregano to finish. Great, simple, perfect. And of course it paired well with the local nameless Rosato.

After my starter of bruschetta, I remember speaking to my host in broken Italian about the television program we were watching. Sort of a People’s Court for Couples. The point of the show was to figure out if one of the members of the couple cheated on the other. Evidence was presented and a judge and jury delivered a verdict.

My host and I were communicating on some level and sure enough that’s when my first course arrived.  A chilled plate of fresh oysters, clams, razor clams, and mussles with a side of lemon. Funny, I don’t recall ordering anything? Shellfish don't have to be stacked up a mile high like so many American restaurants in order to be good. Shellfish has to be fresh, which this was. It’s somewhat difficult to describe a preparation, a combination of flavors, or technique with fresh shellfish other than they taste the way they’re supposed to when they’re harvested fresh and cooked properly. Delicious.

But I wasn’t done with the fish. A plate of marinated octopus arrived about 10 minutes later. The octopus was tender and the vinaigrette tasted mildly acidic. Fresh herbs were also on the dish. Again, a humble plate with no flaws.

Just as my first two courses came without ordering, as did my orrechiette with tomato sauce and smoked ham with just a touch of hard cheeseon top. The pasta was freshly made and the sauce was cooked very briefly. Not a long cooking time at all. Of all the orrechiette I tasted in Puglia, and I ordered them probably 20 times, these were my favorite. Sure, the ones I made at Gianferrante were good and the sauce tasted like my family’s sauce.  However, for a bowl of pasta at a restaurant in my region, these were the best.

After Couple’s Court was concluded, my host and I had another broken conversation about how to finish the meal; with a digestif of Amaro and then café. The amaro was getting pushed at pretty much every restaurant I dined at in Southern Italy. It’s an acquired taste. For comparison, grappa served at room temp can run from Fire Water Hot to warm and flavorful. Amaro is more akin to an individuals’ first experience with Jack Daniels at room temperature. You know it’s going to be strong and it’s probably going to burn. However, with Amaro, what you’re not ready for is the flavor and the lingering aftertaste. Amaro is unlike anything I’ve ever tasted and I’m not used to tasting things like sandpaper infused with dandelion greens and grape seed extract. The amaro did wonders for my digestion, but not my palate memory. Our ancestors survived my spitting things out that tasted bitter, like poison. Amaro imprinted on me, bitter, foul, stranger danger, stranger danger, walk away!

Wandering around town can bring the traveler to places the guidebook would never go and offer an insight into the local culture. As for my experience at Il Cenacolo, it offered the best orrechiette of the trip, the funkiest tasting digestif, and a unique insight into Italian television. I’d love to come back here.

California Alpine Guides

California Alpine Guides

http://www.californiaalpineguides.com/

To conclude my week long series on the delights of US 395, I focus on two experts of The East Side of California, David Miller and Lyra Pierotti. Dave and Lyra are fellow foodies and world travelers. They delivered the inspiration necessary to focus my efforts on this lonely stretch of highway. Dave and Lyra were kind enough to ask me to join them one evening in Mammoth for drinks at the Clocktower Cellar, another jewel just off 395.

 

Dave and I have been climbing together for about 10 years. Dave is a friend, climbing companion, un-official ambassador of the Eastern Sierra and all-around good guy. When you spend time on the rock, in a tent, or in a cabin you better hope you have something in common with the people you're with or the climbing trip could go sour. Luckily, my conversations with Dave cover a wide variety of topics but always seem to gravitate back towards food and wine. Our most recent mountain outing was in Northern Italy, specifically Finale Ligure, one of Italy's legendary sport climbing areas. Dave is a UIAGM/IFMGA Internationally Certified Mountain Guide and AMGA certified alpine guide, rock guide & ski mountaineering guide. Suffice it to say, Dave can climb.

Lyra is also a guide, climber, mountaineer, and fellow blogger http://lyraguides.blogspot.com/. Lyra has some interesting perspectives on the 'life and times' of a career climber on her blog and some good pictures of the experience.

This is one of those rare times when I'm actually mentioning full names. Why? Miller has a business to run and deserves the press. Lyra works as a guide through CAG. So if you have the desire to climb Mt. Whitney, Mt. Shasta, backpack in Yosemite, or ski in Europe check out Dave's website or give him a call.

Another little tid-bit about Dave, he's got global connections...how about a winery in Mexico and a premier winery at that; Adobe Guadalupe Winery. Luckily, Dave had a bottle with him. After drinks at the Clocktower, The Cured Ham cooked that evening for Dave and Lyra and the wine went well with our meal. Don't scoff at Mexican wine. Adobe Guadalupe has been featured at Frontera Grill and Topolobampo in Chicago and has had numerous features in a variety of food and wine magazines. 

Dave and Lyra have forgotten more about US 395 than many of us will ever know. Imagine spending 10 summers traveling back and forth over the Tioga Road? Or climbing lap after lap of 2-day Mt. Shasta summit trips? Or the same beginner crag over and over again? Or the annual migration to warmer climbing spots in Joshua Tree? This is the life of the professional guide and the freedom of the hills.  

But are all those miles and laps worth the experience, the journey? Or are they just points on the map; another summit, an end point? I would argue that a climbers life is worth every experience, every back road, every dusty trail. I'm thankful I have spent time in the wilderness and my experience is brief, when compared to Dave and Lyra.

Enough philosophical ranting. What does the career climber find hunting for crags and gathering miles? The Gourmet Gas Station, Rock Creek Homemade Pies, Hot Springs, and Big Breakfasts!

I've eaten at the Gourmet Gas Station since it opened, turned on to it by Dave and another climbing buddy, Scotty Brown (co-founder of California Alpine Guides). I would have never thought to stop at the Gourmet Gas Station on Tioga Road except to get gas. The Gas Station serves better food than 90% of the restaurants in your town, believe me.

Want a homemade pie? Try driving to the end of Rock Creek Road, you'll find it there in summer. Need a soak in a hot tub? Don't stay at The Comfort Inn for a dirty soak, try a natural hot springs that Dave can lead you to near Mammoth. The Ranch House Cafe in Olancha, thank Miller for that recommendation. The diner at Tom's Place? Been there, done that...thanks to Dave and Scott. Bridgeport, Lee Vining, June Lake, Gardnerville, Alturas, Big Pine, Independence, Bishop, Goose Lake...all towns on 395 and I know who to ask for the best food in town. Do you?

But what happens at the end of the road, literally. No gas station. No diner. No mini-mart. Dinty Moore Beef Stew? Top Ramen? Hell no. How about New York Steak and green beans. As I mentioned before, Dave is no stranger to fine dining and fine wine.  Cabernet is our only choice when Dave fires up New York Steak in a green peppercorn sauce complete with green beans. That's Dave's creation pictured above.

It's the experiences on the road that make us who were are. It forces us to try new things, to be adventurous and not be complacent. I'm happy to have featured some of the great places and people located on Central California's stretch of US 395. I will continue my search, with the help of locals like Dave and Lyra, for the eclectic, the classic, and the end-of-the-road places on US 395.

My thanks again to Dave and Lyra for a couple great nights in Mammoth and for the inspiration to write this continuing feature. I look forward to our next meal.

Relais La Fontanina, Ceglia Messapica

Relais La Fontanina, is on the crossroads between Ceglia Messapica and Ostuni. La Fontanina is a full service hotel, reasonably priced, with a great location for exploring the area. The hotel amenities include internet, pool, and spa. I was staying for 2 nights with the objective of eating at Al Fornello da Ricci and Osteria Gia Sotto L’Arco, which I have reviewed and were fabulous experiences. La Fontanina Hotel was clean, well equipped, and centrally located.  I’d stay here again for efficiency sake, as they have online booking and confirmation and the breakfast was satisfying.

On the downside, I have no idea how the restaurant at the hotel received the rating it did from Michelin. I was not happy with the meal and I know chef was on-site. I expected more, a lot more from the restaurant. If I had to sum up my dining experience at La Fontanina, it would be under-seasoned and overwrought food, not what I would have expected from a local chef. And let’s not forget about the cat making its rounds through the restaurant. I’m not going to detail my experience.Take a drive to Ostuni, Carovigno, or Ceglia M. you’ll be happier.

Two upsides, the wine here was delicious, a Bozzi-Corso, inexpensive and local, and the cheese course was local and satisfying. Honestly, the wine list at the restaurant was a superb representation of the region and you may buy wines or have a tasting structured if you’d like. One strategy could be to eat somewhere else, come back to the hotel and have a cheese course. Or, start drinking wine and cheese at 4pm, wait till 9pm and then leave for dinner.

Ristorante Picton, Lecce, Italy

Ristorante Picton

Via Idomeneo, 14

Lecce, Puglia, Italy

During my brief stop through Lecce in Southern Italy, I experienced a delightful non-Michelin restaurant and undiscovered gem, Ristorante Picton. There is a cooking school in Lecce named The Awaiting Table run by Silvestro Silverstori, that references Picton in their on-line literature. If I hadn't been looking for additional cooking instruction, I may have never stumbled upon this place. 

A wide open space of a restaurant, with high ceilings and exposed brick, I had a good feeling when I sat down to eat. I was immediately greeted with a glass of rosato and the menu. At this point, I was asking for the menu in Italian rather than English for two reasons, immersion and acceptance. I have a basic, working knowledge of Italian and accept the fact not everyone in Italy speaks English. Besides, the menu is more specific when it's written in Italian.

I started with something I don't normally order, a sample plate of starters. I'm usually weary of three or five items served up at once. Known as the 'sampler plate' in American dining, the mere thought conjures up the hell spawned plate of fried calamari, mozzarella sticks, and buffalo wings. But wait, this is Italy, not American Casual Chain dining. Coming back to my reality in Italy, the mixed antipasti was a pleasant surprise.

Starting from the top left and moving clockwise, finishing in the center:

1. Salmon carpaccio with drizzle of olive oil and sprinkle of chive. Simple and delicious.
2. A baked mussel dish which was the weakest of the group, stuffed with breadcrumbs and herbs. I didn't finish these. Unfortunate, because I do like mussels. 
3. Sturgeon carpaccio with a clean, not overly salty flavor. Had a drizzle of syrupy balsamic over the top along with olive oil and chive. 
4. Farro with shrimp in a spicy tomato sauce and lots of fresh parsley, was just plain hearty and good. I could have eaten a whole bowl. Certainly the standout on the plate for me. 
5. Octopus in a slightly lighter tomato sauce than the previous dish and stewed with white beans. I could have eaten this in Louisiana or Lecce.

Primi piatti was spaghetti in a seafood based red sauce. I would hate to make this dish sound pedestrian, it's not, but the flavor of the sauce reminded me of a spicier Manhattan Clam Chowder in Monterey, California. The smell and taste was like a childhood memory and a fond one. I used to have a severe milk allergy when I was young and if I wanted clam chowder I had to have Manhattan style red sauce. Lucky for me, I grew out of the milk allergy, but I still like Manhattan Clam Chowder. Anyway, the sauce was not chunky, but was still more rustic. There was certainly the presence of pepperocino in the sauce, as there was a light kick to it. I have to say, a real highlight in the seafood and pasta category during my time in the south. This pasta and sauce pairs perfectly with a rosato, which is what I was drinking anyway.  The spicy element may allow for a ripe primitivo with high alcohol. This sauce may also be a similar base for the farro appetizer I mentioned above, spicy, rich, delicious. I was very happy with the pasta and the sauce. 

Secondi was a seared and roasted pork loin in a truffle and mushroom cream sauce with radicchio. Straight forward, only a couple ingredients, but delicious. The pork was still juicy and the flavor of pork was still present even with the generous covering of sauce. My guess is that most American palates wouldn’t care for the bitterness of the radicchio. I think an easy substitute could be made here. I also think a simple mushroom cream sauce would work as more pedestrian, porcini cream for higher end, and of course truffles for the gourmet. Just ratchet up the price. 

I just didn't feel like dessert that day and had to keep moving south in order to arrive at Masseria Gianferrante before six o'clock. I did have time to go into the kitchen and speak to chef briefly about the meal. He was a pleasant fellow, proud of his kitchen and his offering. Rather than talk about food, we ended up talking about their upcoming vacation to Sharm el Sheik in Egypt. Funny, I just left Sharm a month earlier to come to Italy.

If you have the chance to visit Lecce, please do so. I didn't spend nearly enough time in Lecce and would not hesitate to plan an entire trip around this city. And if you have little time as I did, Picton is worth the time you have.

Al Fornello da Ricci, Ceglie Messapica

al fornello da Ricci

Contrada Montevicoli

Ceglie Messapica, Brindisi, Puglia, Italy

2009 Michelin Guide: One Star

Delicious, well executed, local, and inspired cuisine. High praise for any restaurant. I knew I was in one of the most famous restaurants in all of Southern Italy and yet, quite at home with the Ricci Family. The atmosphere was casually masterful. In fact, Rosella Ricci was my host that day and Chef Antonella directed the kitchen and brought a few meals to my table. 

An example of being "at home with Italians" may help provide an explanation for those who may not be familiar with an Italian family. There were several people, non-restaurant patrons, who came inside to talk to Rosella, drop off a child, or maybe venture in and out of the kitchen to chat with Antonella. All of these visitors knew the entire staff working that afternoon. During my meal, an impromptu day-care happened not 25 feet from me. Even with all the distractions, Rosella and Chef Antonella found the time to talk with me, explain the meal, re-fill water and wine. Doing all of the things that any Michelin rated restaurant should do. But it was more than that. With quiet, unstudied grace, the Ricci's had me in their home, like so many Italian relatives have done for me or for any guest. 

A casual elegance about dining, having pride in what’s local, a warm welcome and world class food on the plate. To me, this encapsulates the experience of being in Italy and yet, all these details offer a little taste of home. I even heard Sinatra playing in the background. I travel all the way to Southern Italy and I hear Sinatra? Well, the Ricci's have my attention and have put me at ease with true Italian hospitality. 

A note on the wine, I took absolutely no notes on the wines other than very basic ones. We moved from Rosato to Negro Amaro to Primitivo, but I do not have the specifics on each wine. Similar to Osteria Gia L'Arco, the food and the chefs (Antonella and Vinod pictured) are the stars here, the wine is complimentary to the experience, yet secondary to it. On to the degustiazione menu.

Amuse of deep fried meat balls about the size of a marble. What's not to like about 'fried' and 'meat'?Fresh and paired well with the local rosato.

First Course of fried beetroot with puree of beet and timbale of carrot, zucchini, cheese and barley. The timbale of verdure is prevelant in the South. What made this dish more impactful was the experience the night before at a restaurant nearby and their amateur attempt at timbale; just another baked vegetable dish. Al Fornello shows what real attention to the seasoning, form, and presentation can do for a simple, yet well executed timbale.

Let's not forget the beetroot; fried fresh, still hot when served and sprinkled with salt. The puree was beetroot and water, the real flavor of sweet beets. As a side note, the Rosato paired well with the dish. I write in my notes, "for an opening act, they have my complete attention". On to Act Two.

Second Course was a trio of verdure. Stuffed eggplant, croquette of potato and cheese, and deep fried zucchini blossom. Execution is critical to these three dishes. I’ve had each of these ubiquitous items several times in Southern Italy. Everyone cooks them, but does everyone cook them properly?. The fried zucchini blossom could have easily been greasy, or the eggplant underseasoned. Or perhaps worse than poor execution, they could have been deconstructed or reinterpreted as many a Michelin rated restaurant tends to do.

As expected, Chef Antonella is smart enough not to re-work Puglian staples or improperly fry a squash blossom. As in my first course, commonly available ingredients are treated with care and the traditional dishes of the South are displayed with pride by a skilled and properly trained kitchen. Rather than explain each detail of this trio, I will simply say if you've ever had the pleasure of a perfectly fried squash blossom or croquette, you know what I'm talking about. Simple, but exactly what you expect.

Third Course was another traditional Trio of Southern Italy, roasted peppers, chicory “Grandma Style” meaning braised in water until tender and finished with olive oil and salt (at least that's how my 89 year old grandmother prepares them), and a puree of chickpeas on toast. A repeat of the execution style from above. These trios are not fancy, they are food items typical of every household in the region. I am pleased to see this amount of tradition right up front in the meal and I'm three courses in.

So far...Wonderful. No excuses. No reinterpretations. No mistakes. 

Fourth Course (sorry, no picture, it was blurry) was a in-house burrata or Straccitella with home-made salumi. The salumi had a lovely purity of flavor, with no masking of herbs, spices, or fragrances. I wrote in my notes, “why aren’t we importing Puglian salumi? I’m tired of Procuitto di Parma!” The 100% Negroamaro from Salento debuts at this course, 14% alcohol.

Fifth Course was a green bean soup with fresh green beans. Purity of flavor, just like the beets in my first course, was what made this dish lovely. Think back to an episode of Gordon Ramsay when he asked how many ingredients go into a “name favorite vegetable here” soup? If it’s more than 1, you don’t have a pure soup. I just hope you like the vegetable the soup is made from. 

The Sixth Course presented is ravioli infused with squid ink, topped with the local truffle. The stuffing was a simple ricotta cheese mixture and the sauce, well, I couldn’t identify everything in the sauce, other than probably a blend of peppers and zucchini as a guess. I like the color of the dried tomato skin, but the color of the sauce is a little to 'baby-food' yellow-green for me. The flavor of the sauce is fine, it's more of a visual dissatisfaction. The Primitivo / Negroamaro from Salento makes it's debut during this course. Alcohol is 14%.

For the Seventh and final savory course, a duo of grilled meat, lamb and rabbit. The instant aroma when the meat duo is brought to the table by Chef Antonella, is the aromatics; not of the grill but of the herbs and spices. I take the grill for granted in its role in imparting flavor to the dish. The herbs one chooses are the key. The aroma of Bay leaf permeated the air. A secondary spice came into play as the dish was presented, a mild peperoncini (the brick colored pool upper-right) sauce was the pronounced fragrance on the plate. The question now becomes, based upon the protein selected, the cooking method used, and the aromatics applied, how does the dish come together when eaten? The answer is complimentary, full-palate flavor, and not over-powering. The meat was juicy, the lamb cooked to a medium temperature and the rabbit was cooked through, but not over-cooked or dry. The rabbit obviously took on more of the combined flavors than the lamb.

I was surprised to see rice with vegetables as a base for the duo.  A nice finish to before dessert.

Eighth Course was a simple red wine granita with fresh fruit. The fruit was fresh and the granita didn't taste of alcohol. I skipped the Ninth and Final Course which was a fruit tart. Frankly, I didn't have an ounce of room left in my stomach anyway. Besides, I had to drive to Matera after lunch.

Chef Antonella and Rosella graciously invited me into the kitchen at the end of the meal and offered me a parting gift, a bottle of fresh vinaigrette using all home-grown products. I joked with the chefs and even commented on Antonella's long pony-tail, tied up for each service. In fact, I received a big hug from Rosella and even said hello to her 9-year old son. I also spoke with Vinod, sous chef at the restaurant and the rest of the kitchen staff. It's a real honor and pleasure to be allowed such access.

It would be a privilege to dine at the Ricci's again.

Ristorante Cibus, Ceglie Messapica, Puglia, Italy

"It's in the guidebook!" 

   "I Brake for Food!"  

These sayings are often the herald of many travelers and hungry people. Considering how many guidebook bumper-stickers adorn the front door of Cibus in the town of Ceglie Messapica, Italy; this may have been my first indication of the masses, budget conscious backpackers, or passersby choosing food without any real expertise. I would like to suggest a negative correlation between the total number of guidebook stickers that adorn the front door of a restaurant, the greater the probability that the food will be average or below average. I am being specific by stating "adorn the front door". The guidebook does help, but the stickers should serve simply as a warning. Really, how many bumper-stickers do you have on your car or worse, your front door?

Cibus lacks the finesse or inspiration required to compete at a elite level. The website, translated from Italian into four languages, documents the rich tradition and care taken to craft various dishes, which may be true. There is even an area described as the “laboratory” in a “continuous search for improvement”. As someone who has been in sales and marketing most of his career, this website does a wonderful job of marketing the ‘concept’ but has a difficulty following through on expectations. 

1. (Clockwise from 12) Bacala with fresh uncooked vegetables in a vinaigrette. I don't know why the vegetables are uncooked and unseasoned. I'm glad the bacala had some salt. Why bacala in summertime? And why a salted fish when we are 20ish minutes to the sea?
2. Handful of Olives which are delicious. I'm guessing they cured them in-house, but I have no such assurance. They could have purchased the olives for all I know.
3. Squash blossom, blanched and stuffed with fresh ricotta and herbs, simple and easy. The ricotta could have been purchased rather than produced in-house.
4. Burrata with a bit of truffle in a timbale, sure packed full of flavor, but with fresh burrata, why use a truffle? Again, did Cibus produce their own burrata or buy it?
5. Fresh ricotta salata (in-house or purchased?) with a big pour of vin cotto. Again, the cheese was good on it’s own, why drizzle a sweet reduction over the top?
6. Room temp barley salad with cheese and uncooked vegetables again in a vinaigrette. Yawn!
7. (Center of plate) Frittatta with some odd sauce I couldn’t figure out and didn’t care to. Egg was overcooked and underseasoned. I appreciate the chickens' effort in producing an egg.

For my main course, rabbit in red sauce with olives. The olives used in this dish were small, smooth, not overly salty, and stored in olive oil. They went quite well with the sauce and the wine, so they were complimentary. The rabbit was dry, despite the cooking process of stewing or braising. The butcher or prep cook left several pieces of bone loose for me to pick out during eating. I will usually allow one bone per meal, but this time I counted five bones. The sauce has body but was a bit oily. There was some form of cured meat involved as well as dried mushroom in the base of the sauce. Average sauce, looked reasonably good on the plate despite the pool of oil, but overall sloppy execution.

Dessert was a Primitivo Granita  with a fresh diced peach. The granita tasted like alcohol. I’m hoping they cooked the wine and added sugar, but from the flavor, I doubt it.

So I call into question, what is it that these people actually cooked that I liked? I seemed to enjoy the products that were purchased rather than prepared. The olives, ricotta, and burrata may have been purchased. The rabbit and olives in a braise is really a no-brainer and it was good, not great. I'd like to thank the cow that produced the milk for cheese, the chicken for producing eggs, and for the rabbit that gave its life that day, hopefully not the day before. I appreciate your sacrifice.

Not all restaurants have to be an 'experience' or Michelin starred. Some restaurants should stick with simple, straightforward cuisine. But as we all too often realize, simple isn't always easy.

A few bumper stickers before you go:

  "Rehab is for Quitters"  

  "Eat Right, Exercise, Die Anyway"  

  "Don't Follow me, I'm Lost"